Quartiere Testaccio
Organizing a tour of the Testaccio neighborhood by means such as bike, scooter, Vespa or tuk-tuk is a great idea to explore this authentic corner of Rome in a dynamic and fun way. Below is a guide for a tour that touches on the main points of interest and is adaptable to the means chosen.
What you need to know about the Testaccio neighborhood
The Testaccio district is one of the most characteristic places in Rome, located south of the historic center and known for its authentic and popular charm. This neighborhood, located along the banks of the Tiber River, takes its name from Monte dei Cocci, an artificial hill formed by the remains of Roman amphorae, especially fragments of shards used in imperial times to transport oil.
History and Culture: Testaccio is historically a working-class and port district, closely linked to trade and daily life in ancient Rome. The Monte dei Cocci bears witness to this commercial past, while more recent buildings show the industrial evolution of the area, especially with the presence of the old general markets and industrial plants.
Art and Music: In recent years, Testaccio has become an important center for contemporary art and music. One of the main landmarks is MACRO Testaccio, a branch of the Museum of Contemporary Art of Rome, housed in the spaces of a former slaughterhouse. The area is also famous for its music scene, with several venues and clubs offering live music nights and DJ sets.
Roman Cuisine: Testaccio is the heart of traditional Roman cuisine. The neighborhood’s restaurants and trattorias are renowned for typical dishes such as coda alla vaccinara, trippa, and pasta alla gricia. The Testaccio Market is a must for those who want to discover the authentic flavors of Roman cuisine, offering fresh produce and local street food.
Nightlife: Testaccio’s nightlife is lively and varied. The neighborhood is known for its bars, pubs and clubs that attract both Romans and tourists looking for a unique and genuine atmosphere, with events ranging from live music to dance.
Testaccio represents a side of Rome that is different from the more touristy neighborhoods: it is a place where you can still breathe the authentic soul of the city, including culture, gastronomy and history.
History of the Shard Mount
The Monte dei Cocci (Monte Testaccio) is an artificial hill about 35 meters high, formed by millions of amphora fragments dating back to the Roman period, when Testaccio was a storage area for goods from all over the Empire. Because many amphorae were not reusable, they were broken and neatly piled up. Today, the mound is an important archaeological site and a unique historical curiosity, bearing witness to the intense commercial activity of ancient Rome.
The Culinary Tradition of the Quinto Quarto: Testaccio is known for its culinary tradition related to the “quinto quarto” (the scraps of slaughter), a poor cuisine that has given rise to iconic Roman dishes such as coda alla vaccinara and Roman-style tripe. This link to the past is reflected in the many traditional restaurants and trattorias, such as Checchino dal 1887 and Flavio al Velavevodetto, which offer dishes handed down from generation to generation.
The Testaccio Market is a busy place, both for locals and tourists. It is a modern market, relocated to a new structure but retaining the lively atmosphere of Roman district markets. Here you can find fruit, vegetable, fish and meat stalls, as well as street food stands and small delicatessens where you can enjoy local specialties. This market is a landmark for those who want to enjoy fresh, authentic food in a dynamic setting.
MACRO Testaccio and Nuova Vita Culturale: Testaccio is home to one of the venues of MACRO, the Museum of Contemporary Art in Rome, which occupies the spaces of the old slaughterhouse (formerly Mattatoio di Testaccio), an imposing industrial complex from the late 19th century. This center is now a major exhibition space for contemporary art, with exhibitions, installations and workshops. In addition, the slaughterhouse area also houses La CittĂ dell’Altra Economia, a center dedicated to the issues of sustainable economy, organic and fair trade.
Nightlife and Movida: Testaccio’s nightlife is legendary: the neighborhood is famous for its music scene and nightclubs. In particular, Via di Monte Testaccio is known for its clubs and bars carved out of old warehouses, with shard walls dating back to Roman times. Among the historic clubs, L’Alibi, Caffè Latino and Akab attract a young and varied clientele. Testaccio’s nightlife is intense, and the neighborhood is a reference point for those who want to experience Roman nightlife away from the more touristy circuits.
Architecture and Urbanism: Testaccio has a unique architecture made up of early twentieth-century working-class buildings built to house the families of workers and dockworkers. The buildings often have interior courtyards and are decorated with architectural details that reflect the aesthetics of the time. Today, many of these buildings house artists, creatives and students, giving the neighborhood a vibrant and alternative atmosphere.
Local Festivals and Traditions: The neighborhood also maintains several local traditions and festivals, such as the celebration of St. Bartholomew, the patron saint of Testaccio. During these festivities, the streets of the neighborhood come alive with cultural events, concerts and stalls, attracting residents and visitors alike.
Curiosities
Origin of the Name: The name “Testaccio” comes from the Latin word “Testaceus,” meaning “made of shards.” This refers to Monte Testaccio, a hill composed of fragments of ancient amphorae that were accumulated here since Roman times. It is estimated that the hill is made up of about 53 million shards, which come mainly from amphorae used to transport oil from Spain.
Testaccio and the Gladiators: During imperial times, Testaccio was near the ancient river port and was a short distance from the Circus Maximus and the Colosseum. Several spaces used for training gladiators were also located here. Some stories tell that, in Testaccio, there were also facilities to treat the wounded from fighting and to honor fallen gladiators.
The Music of Gabriella Ferri: Testaccio was a source of inspiration for the iconic Roman singer Gabriella Ferri, who was born and raised in this neighborhood. Ferri, with her unique voice and songs steeped in passion and melancholy, sang the popular soul of Rome, and to this day she is considered a symbolic figure of Roman culture.
Via di Monte Testaccio and the Nightclubs: This street is famous for its peculiarity: many nightclubs were carved out of warehouses used in ancient times to store goods. Some of the walls of these premises are said to rest directly against the shards of the mound. The contrast between Roman history and modern nightlife is one of the aspects that makes the street unique.
The Myth of the Slaughterhouse: The old slaughterhouse in Testaccio was active from 1890 to 1975, and was one of the largest slaughtering facilities in Europe. This contributed to the birth of quinto quarto cuisine, or the use of offal and less noble cuts of meat, now part of traditional Roman cuisine. The slaughterhouse was also the scene of stories and legends, some of them related to the hard life of the workers.
Testaccio and Football: Testaccio has been a symbolic place for the AS Roma soccer team. In the 1930s, the team’s first stadium, called Campo Testaccio, was built here, becoming one of the first stadiums specifically for a soccer team in Italy. The stadium was demolished in the 1940s, but the connection between Testaccio and the team remains alive, with many Roma fans considering the neighborhood as the team’s “spiritual home.”
Art and Street Art: In recent years, Testaccio has become one of Rome’s most important street art hubs. Numerous urban artists, both Italian and international, have created works on the neighborhood’s walls. Some of these murals can be found along the surrounding wall of the old slaughterhouse, where each work tells a story or pays homage to historical figures and social issues.
Testaccio Bridge: connects the neighborhood with the Ostiense and is one of the ideal places to enjoy the sunset over the Tiber. The bridge was built in 1938, and from here you can see a unique perspective of the city, between the green river and Testaccio’s historic structures.
Testaccio and Cinema: Testaccio is often used as a film location because of its special charm and authenticity. Many directors, both Italian and international, have chosen it as a setting for films that aim to represent the soul of Rome. Among them, Nanni Moretti shot some scenes of “Caro Diario” right in the streets of the neighborhood.