Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi – Caravaggio
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What you need to know about the Church of St. Louis of the French
The “Church of San Luigi dei Francesi” in Rome is famous for housing some of Caravaggio’s most famous works. Located near Piazza Navona, it is the national church of the French community in Rome and was built in the 16th century. Inside the church, in the “Contarelli Chapel,” are three masterpieces by Caravaggio, created between 1599 and 1602. These works depict scenes from the life of St. Matthew and are considered milestones of Baroque art: “Calling of St. Matthew” – Depicting the moment when Christ calls Matthew to follow him, a work famous for the play of light and shadow Caravaggio uses to give depth and intensity to the scene. “St. Matthew and the Angel” – In this canvas, Caravaggio depicts Matthew writing the Gospel with the help of an angel, a very innovative work for the realistic depiction of the subjects. “Martyrdom of St. Matthew” – Depicts the saint’s martyrdom in a raw and dramatic way, showing Caravaggio’s talent for dramatization and emotional intensity. These works are considered outstanding examples of Caravaggio’s chiaroscuro, a technique that characterizes his painting, and are prized for their emotional charge and realism. The church is an essential stop for those who want to admire Caravaggio’s art and immerse themselves in the history of Roman and French art in Rome. The Church of San Luigi dei Francesi is not only famous for Caravaggio, but has a rich and complex history. Commissioned by Cardinal Giulio de’ Medici (later Pope Clement VII), construction of the church began in 1518 and was completed in 1589. Designed by architect Giacomo della Porta, the church was financed by the king of France and became a symbol of the French community in Rome.
Architecture and Interior: The exterior of the church is rather sober compared to the interior, which features Baroque and Renaissance details, with elaborate decoration, stucco work, and frescoes celebrating French saints and historical figures. The interior is Latin cross with a single nave and three chapels on each side.
Contarelli Chapel and Caravaggio’s Commission: The Contarelli Chapel, where Caravaggio’s three works are located, was commissioned by Cardinal Matthieu Cointrel, Italianized as “Contarelli.” Caravaggio was commissioned to decorate the chapel at a time when he was establishing himself as one of the most innovative artists in Rome.
Caravaggio, known for his turbulent life and rebellious character, used models from everyday life to depict religious scenes, a revolutionary choice for the time. His dramatic use of chiaroscuro and realistic depiction of his subjects made his works incredibly engaging and realistic, but also controversial to some contemporary observers.
Works of Caravaggio:
Vocation of St. Matthew – Caravaggio depicts Christ pointing to Matthew, a tax collector seated among men dressed in contemporary clothing. The light comes from an offstage window, emphasizing the spiritual message of the divine call.
St. Matthew and the angel – This painting presents St. Matthew in a human, almost humble interpretation. The saint appears almost surprised as the angel guides him in writing the Gospel.
Martyrdom of St. Matthew – This dramatic work shows the moment of Matthew’s murder during the celebration of Mass. The composition is chaotic, with the saint in the center writhing as an executioner kills him, and the faithful and angels watch with expressions of horror.
Curiosities
Influence of Caravaggio: Caravaggio’s dramatization and stark realism influenced many later artists and gave rise to the school of “Caravaggeschi.”
Realistic details: Caravaggio often used ordinary people as models, breaking with the conventions of the time and infusing sacred scenes with an everyday, human quality.
The Church of San Luigi dei Francesi is therefore a must-see destination for those who wish to explore not only sacred art, but also the complex history of the French community in Rome and the revolutionary art of Caravaggio, who left an indelible mark on the history of art.
French influence in Rome: The church is dedicated to St. Louis IX, King of France, and is a symbol of the strong French presence in Rome. It was built thanks to the support of Catherine de’ Medici, a central figure in the French royal family, who wanted a representative church for the French community in the Italian capital.
A Controversial Chapel: Caravaggio initially encountered resistance for his stark, realist style. The Contarelli Chapel was originally intended to be decorated with paintings by other artists, but was entrusted to Caravaggio, who brought a new and dramatic approach to religious scenes, in contrast to the more idealized art of the time. Some contemporary critics found his depictions “too earthy” and inappropriate.
Models from everyday life: Caravaggio used ordinary people as models for his paintings. For the characters in the Vocation of St. Matthew, for example, he is thought to have chosen models from the alleys of Rome, using contemporary clothing, a radical choice for the time. This contributed to the work’s realism and gave it an immediacy rarely seen in religious art.
The double St. Matthew and the angel: Caravaggio painted two versions of St. Matthew and the angel. The first version, considered too realistic and “disrespectful,” was rejected by the patrons. In it, Matthew is depicted looking almost awkward, while the angel guides his hand. After criticism, Caravaggio painted a second version, the one visible today, with Matthew in a more composed and authoritative pose.
chiaroscuro technique: Caravaggio’s use of chiaroscuro, with strong contrasts between light and shadow, became the trademark of his style. In the works of St. Louis of the French, this technique emphasizes the drama of the scenes, contributing to an almost theatrical atmosphere. This style influenced many later artists and marked the birth of the Baroque.
The mystery of Christ’s face: In the “Calling of St. Matthew,” Caravaggio chose to depict Christ’s face in a partially hidden and less detailed manner than the other characters. This may have been done to emphasize the divine and mysterious nature of Christ, differentiating him from human figures and making his presence even more symbolic.
Troubled fate of the church during looting: During past invasions and looting, the church suffered damage and was in danger of losing some of its works. It is thanks to a series of restorations and the willingness of the French community that Caravaggio’s works have been preserved to this day.
A place of inspiration for artists and writers: Caravaggio’s church and paintings have been a source of inspiration for numerous artists, writers and poets who have visited Rome over the centuries. Writers such as Stendhal and Théophile Gautier, as well as Caravaggesque artists, found San Luigi dei Francesi a unique source of inspiration.
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